Appointed creative director in December 2013, David Koma has commanded the French house while embracing founder Thierry Mugler’s emblematic sleekness ever since. For this latest spring season, the signature brand codes adopt a militaristic feel. With a palette of navy and white, insignia buttons, and double-breasted silhouettes, dresses and blazers recall the classic strictness of sailors’ uniforms. An army vibe manifested itself elsewhere through olive-hued cargo pants and a minidress reminiscent of a traditional field jacket. Overall, a sense of strong femininity informs the collection, especially evidenced by the utilitarian-cum-sexy backless jumpsuit (worn by Doutzen Kroes) that closed the runway show.