Paris-based, Belgium-born designer Jonathan Riss began his career designing military uniforms. Although an unusual start, these utilitarian origins laid the groundwork to what would become the Jay Ahr (named after the phonetic spelling of his initials) signature: making embroidery feel minimal. This spring follows suit with designs rooted in understated embellishment and textural fabrics. From latticework overlays to collaged lace, each technique was specifically developed for the collection out of a fabric technology lab in Beijing. Among the many highlights were kicky chiffon dresses with smocked waists and chiffon halter gowns blazing with brilliant color.