When Simon Porte Jacquemus arrived on the Paris fashion scene a few years back, his clean lines and nonchalant tees rapidly won over the cool crowd. Redefining South-of-France staples—the boxy dress, cotton shirt, or Breton stripe—has been his approach. This spring, however, the wunderkind foregoes his trademark beachy look for something entirely different. Dubbed “Le Nez Rouge” or “The Red Nose” (from crying a lot) this latest collection reflects a poetic interpretation of the designer’s psychological state. Red circle motifs dot relaxed trousers and crisp frocks, as blazers are sliced in half, only to be held together by string. Summery numbers undergo profound transformations with overlaid details offering an off-kilter vibe. Staged in a remote industrial hangar, the surreal showing was interrupted by Jacquemus parading a white horse across the space—a symbol of optimism, perhaps not only representative of his mindset, but also of his clothes.