“Americana” Has Never Been Cooler:
Raf’s reference points have ranged from American West (cowboy shirts and prairie dresses) to iconic American films (Jaws and The Graduate), giving the folk and familiar a newly-minted It appeal. Surely some of it can be attributed to Simons' fresh perspective as an outsider, but if a designer can get the young kids coveting quilts, you know he’s good.
Art meets Fashion:
Raf's first collection was staged "inside" an installation by Sterling Ruby—translation: art and fashion are linked at this label. Ruby has since redesigned the brand's showrooms in New York and Paris (cooling up the way we see clothes) and has been the brains behind the set design for all subsequent runway collections. As various references throughout the seasons prove, the work of Andy Warhol is also a key inspiration; the brand is currently showcasing the artist's massive 'Shadows' murals at their New York showroom (in conjunction with the Whitney's mega-retrospective) and sponsored the Dia Art Foundation's recent fall gala in New York.
Let’s get one thing clear: with Raf Simons (you know him from his days at Jil Sander and Dior) at the helm since late 2016, Calvin Klein is no longer the “Calvin” you know. To start, it’s now got a new name, CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. However, and more importantly, it’s also boasting a new cool. Four runway collections later, it’s the hottest ticket at New York Fashion Week and has turned out cult items since Raf’s first season. Here, find everything you need to know.
The Name, Explained:
Though it’s a set of coordinates familiar to New York insiders, the new brand moniker may not be an obvious choice to everyone. To explain, 205 West 39th Street is the address of the label’s Manhattan headquarters, making for a very clear connection to where everything is created.