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BRIONI
New designer Norbert Stumpfl took all the stuffiness out of the Italian brand, which happens to dress many of the world's presidents. He kept the elegance level high, though. Check the hand-stitched, washed silk, double-breasted suits. 
LANVIN
Former Loewe menswear designer Bruno Sialelli made a splash with his second Lanvin collection, drawing on aquatic themes in a straightforward way and crafting exceptional outerwear.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE XXX
Suiting with technical fabric has become a hot subcategory in menswear. This season the house which produces textiles for some of the best brands in the world showed us how it was done. 
AMI
Straightforward but not simplistic, this collection showed the Parisian brand owning its lane and adding some sex appeal.
NANUSHKA
Newly making menswear, Nanushka nailed this collection highlighted by a deft use of vegan leather.