THE Q&A:
MAURIZIO DONADI
Working out of Maurizio Donadi’s L.A.-based design laboratory, Atelier & Repairs provides a poetic solution to the pressing issue of overproduction. We spoke to A&R founder and industry veteran Donadi about sartorial reincarnation, working responsibly, and the beauty of one-of-a-kind.
Interview by Tyler Sparling
“Instead of doing a lot of the same let’s do less–but with more soul.”—Maurizio Donadi
TS: Can you start by giving me a bit of background as to why you started Atelier & Repairs?
MD: After working at different companies for 35 years, I wanted to start something of my own but realized that the world didn’t need another brand. There are so many great designers with great brands, that I don’t need to be another one. The idea instead was to start a project around the idea of transforming what already exists rather than producing more.
TS: And what did you do?
MD: I coupled that realization with another idea, which was to use recycled textiles to transform what already exists with the basis of a one-of-a-kind. So from the beginning we were going to do the opposite of fast fashion: one item with 100,000 units that look exactly the same. So we said no, let’s add an artistic point of view to create things that look totally different from each other, because we as humans are that way–we are seven billion people and we are all different from each other.
TS: Absolutely.
MD: And our guiding principle is the same–if you can add a creative or artistic approach–an artist doesn’t want to make two of the same, right?
TS: Right.
MD: So that was the story that intrigued me: let’s make things that are unique, let’s do slow instead of fast, let’s be creative instead of efficient. Instead of doing a lot of the same let’s do less but with more soul.
TS: It’s so interesting that you hesitate to call A&R a brand.
MD: It’s really not, and I really do get a little aggravated when people say “Oh, I really love your brand,” and I say you know, “thank you so much, but you don’t really get it” [laughs].
TS: [laughs] From what you’ve said it really does seem more of a mission than a brand. From a design perspective then, are you not thinking in seasons or collections?
MD: Yes–we never think about seasons, or trends. It’s a conversation we have between the garments we’re sourcing, the type of fabrics we’re interested in, and our ability to reimagine an item, taking it apart and building it anew. It’s rarely about a collection, or whether we’re doing it for men or women. It’s about making sure that an item is good again. It was good at one point, for one type of job, and then we take it and it becomes something else.
TS: It goes back to that idea of doing the opposite of what everyone else is doing.
MD: Yes.
TS: And to dig into your design process a bit more, when you see a piece, do you immediately know how you’re going to reimagine it, or does the process take more planning?
MD: We always approach sourcing first. Then we say “okay, we are inspired by the Rio de Janeiro Carnival, where color is fundamental.” And so we did a jean called the Rio, and it’s a festival of color for denim. We have a poetic license in all that we do.
TS: So it really is nothing like a tradition design process.
MD: Yes, it is very unorthodox. We don’t really design, we think. We really only have one person who is a trained designer, and the rest is a common effort to say “what can we do with this item, how can we take it apart and give it new life”.
TS: Almost like a reincarnation.
MD: Absolutely–reincarnation is a word we use very often.
TS:Another facet of what you’re doing is creating a really clever solution to the issue of overproduction. How do you see the fashion industry’s role in protecting our planet evolving?
MD: I think now more than ever brands are starting to become more aware of the situation of the planet, of the excess of the industry and the harmful impact that using certain production methods can have. I hear more and more every day about designers becoming more responsible about production.
TS: It is encouraging to see so many brands taking action.
MD: Absolutely yes. But even so, some see “sustainability” as a marketing initiative–but it is not. Sustainability is another word we try to avoid; we instead use responsibility, because we strive to do things with accountability. We strive to have a responsible approach to everything we do, to prove that doing things this way is not only possible but beneficial to both the planet and the business. So we want to do our part by reducing excess, both in finished garments and in unused textiles.
TS: Yes. It’s really about doing what’s right rather than what’s easy.
MD: Exactly.
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