Reinventing a longstanding, storied French fashion house is no easy task. Just ask Federico Curaddi, who, in 2018, set forth to relaunch Rochas’s menswear line with a fresh new outlook.
In only three seasons, the Italian talent—who formerly designed for Ermanno Scervino and, after that, ‘90s streetwear pioneer, Iceberg — has already established a distinct design lexicon for the heritage label: one steeped in artistry, elegance, and craft, with an emphasis on incredible fabrics (designed in-house each season) and uncomplicated ease.
To celebrate his recently-shown Fall 2020 collection, now available in Trunkshow exclusively on Moda, we sat down with the designer to discuss his vision for the Rochas man, why he prefers the countryside to the city (hint: it has to do with his five pet wolves), and the differences between French and Italian style.
INTERVIEW BY TYLER SPARLING
In only three seasons, the Italian talent—who formerly designed for Ermanno Scervino and, after that, ‘90s streetwear pioneer, Iceberg — has already established a distinct design lexicon for the heritage label: one steeped in artistry, elegance, and craft, with an emphasis on incredible fabrics (designed in-house each season) and uncomplicated ease.
To celebrate his recently-shown Fall 2020 collection, now available in Trunkshow exclusively on Moda, we sat down with the designer to discuss his vision for the Rochas man, why he prefers the countryside to the city (hint: it has to do with his five pet wolves), and the differences between French and Italian style.
INTERVIEW BY TYLER SPARLING
How did you first set about reimagining the “Rochas man”?
When I arrived, I wanted to start fresh and not have what came before influence what I did. I wanted to find a language that I could use to explain Parisian elegance—something that Marcel Rochas was a master of—and the nonchalance that Parisian men have. So many of my references come from art because so many incredible artists have lived in Paris, including the masters like Picasso and Modigliani: the city has this wonderful, effortless, artistic energy. At his core, the Rochas man represents a kind of artistic nonchalance that is deeply Parisian.
You were born and raised in Florence, and now live in Tuscany. Suffice it to say, you are thoroughly Italian. Given that the Rochas brand is distinctly French, how have you managed to marry these two sensibilities?
I actually live about 45 minutes outside of [Florence] now. I think Italian taste, as opposed to French taste, is a little more… opulent. I don’t say tacky—I say opulent. [Laughs] And the French have a kind of less-is-more attitude, but in a very cool way. So with Rochas I try to channel more of that French side than the Italian side.
What is it about living so far removed from the city that appeals to you?
I moved to the countryside around 15 years ago, and it’s so important to me. I have a lot of animals—horses, cows, and my five wolves—so I can’t really live in the city. I love waking up feeling like I’m in the middle of nowhere—it’s really healthy, for my soul. It’s so peaceful, and for me, it gives me so much inspiration.
