“Whether you are sixteen or over sixty, remember, understatement is the rule of a fine makeup artist.” Helena Rubinstein may have been talking about beauty, but the same applies to style. As skirts get shorter, shoulders bigger and jewelry more sparkly (haven’t you heard, the ‘80s are back?) a new voice is rising above the noise: meet Jean Prounis.
Counting Emily Bode (behind buzzy menswear brand Bode) and Lorod’s Lauren Rodriguez as close friends, Jean—who goes by “Jeanie”—belongs to a group of artistic New York designers adopting bygone techniques in order to create something with true lasting power. In the case of Prounis, it’s understated fine jewelry inspired by her Greek heritage, the hallmarks of which are facet-free cabochon stones and an ancient alloy of gold. “I think about how things were made back then and use those practices today,” she says, adding, “but on pieces that are very wearable.” It’s an aesthetic Vogue praised as “refreshingly down to earth” and one that’s all the more impressive when you learn she’s only 25 and her jewelry line is just a year old.
Speaking of impressive, Prounis is an actual goldsmith who works in her studio on 47th street. She makes everything meticulously by hand, from tiny granulated clasps to intricate chain links, and even alloys the metal herself. Recognizable by its butter-rich hue and matte finish, her 22-karat gold (a blend of pure silver, copper and recycled gold) replicates the composition of ancient Greek and Roman artifacts, such as those currently sitting inside the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Far softer than the 18-karat gold commonly used today, it gradually picks up marks and increased shine from oils in the skin. Prounis likens it to a wearable diary: “You can always tell when someone wears it every day” she says, pointing out gentle dents on her rings which reveal her “heavy-handed” nature.
“I see a lot of brides-to-be in search of something understated. One man came in last week after his girlfriend sent him a link saying “she doesn’t want anything sparkly.” Right now, we’re working on incorporating a small diamond into a gold piece.”