Few designers have done more for eco-fashion than Kit Willow, which is why insiders consider her its poster girl. The Aussie designer, 41, launched her ethical high-fashion label, Kitx, in 2015. The idea came a few years earlier after a “lightbulb moment” encounter with the prominent environmentalist Jochen Zeitz, (Kering’s then Chief Sustainability Officer and the man credited with inventing the environmental P&L). Crafted entirely from non-toxic and upcycled materials (right down to details like zippers), Kitx not only set a new industry standard from a production standpoint, the label’s sleek aesthetic was also one of the first to debunk the myth that “eco-fashion” was, by definition, “ugly fashion”. 

We’ve come a long way since the days when “eco” equaled a hemp tote, and it’s largely thanks to Willow. Her unique skill lies in making eco-materials (upcycled from ocean plastic, bottle tops and other landfill materials) appear desirable—so desirable that her clients range from like-minded eco-warriors to women simply in search of a fabulous dress. “I believe people need to fall in love with fashion” she says, clear that she doesn’t push an agenda. “I don’t want to bombard customers with statistics” (though she’ll happily rattle off an impressive list if asked). “What’s important is that brands are transparent in their practices—and then it’s up to the customer to decide if that fits within their value system” says Willow. For those of us in search of direction, Willow offers a clear starting point: “Avoid acetate, nylon, and polyester. Unless it’s upcycled, it’s downright bad.” 

“Making sustainability fashionable” by mobilizing the global fashion system to change the way we produce, market and consume fashion.

 

By accident. I had a TV show on a Nordic equivalent of MTV, and a lot of the content was fashion-focused. I did this show for a couple of years and gradually made my way into the fashion industry. 

Hairdresser or architect

 

The potential to actually make positive change for people and the planet.

 

Constant fundraising

 

Never let the sun go down on your anger. (Danish translation)

 

Believe in yourself. Take chances, go into deep water—that’s the mentality my parents brought me up with. 

 

Eclectic

 

My sneakers

 

Trust, respect and clear messaging.

 

It’s a difficult one. For me, success is not when I achieve something personally, it’s when we move the needle collectively. Sustainability requires a group of people; we all need to get onboard this mission. 

As CEO of the Global Fashion Agenda, the organization behind the internationally recognized Copenhagen Fashion Summit, Eva Kruse is effecting profound, systemic change. “The real policy leaders are multinational companies,” she says. “We are looking at a world where industries have the ability to make more impact.” Last year, Kruse made headlines for orchestrating a group pledge to shift the fashion industry from a waste heavy linear system to a recycling based circular one. Over 100 companies, ranging from luxury conglomerate Kering to mass retailer Target, signed on. Even more are expected to join after this year’s summit in May. 

The Scandinavian CEO, who was raised by socialist parents in Denmark, sees living sustainably as a moral duty. But because not everyone thinks like her, Kruse preaches the gospel that good business is good for business. As resources such as water become increasingly scarce (and thus more expensive), sustainability affects the bottom line. This is something brands can understand—and get behind. Still, convincing billion-dollar companies to adopt sustainable practices and philosophies requires determination, charisma and grit. They’re qualities that the 45-year-old mother-of-three (who brought her 6-week old son with her to Paris Fashion Week and agreed to this interview while on maternity leave) has in spades. “It’s not an easy conversation to have with an industry that thrives off creating a need for new things,” she admits. “But the summit is not a tree hugger’s convention. It is a fashion event and it is big business. We are trying to support economic growth in ways which have less impact because, the way it’s going now, we are running out of resources.”