THE Q&A
Slow is the New Fast
Chatting with AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi
After working at some of the biggest houses in fashion, Parisian designer Alexandre Mattiussi founded AMI at 30 as a way to outfit himself and his friends.
Now he’s nearing 40, and still designing for those same people. And as men’s style seems to be swinging his way–with Instagram fatigue setting in, and understated style making a return–he’s ready for the moment.
You manage to produce high-end garments at a reasonable price point. What’s your secret?
AM: You always have choices. When I make a salad, I use the best tomato. But you don’t have to spend 100 Euros to make a good salad. With clothes it’s about production. If you go to Portugal, you can stay in Europe and get great quality at a lower price. If I didn’t do that, it would be a much less accessible brand.
What is your general idea about the way men should dress?
AM: I’m not a fashionista, but I care about my clothes. Again, I was 30 when I really started my brand. So I was out of my young period, where you discover yourself, try new things, and be recognizable with your style. Also working for big brands and designing products at a very high price, and having your friends asking you after the show, “Who can afford that?” I wanted to have an answer for them. So I design timeless clothes you can wear again and again. I don’t rush. What we’re doing is chic, effortless and for people who appreciate details. I think good men’s clothes are all about the details. When you put your arm in your sleeve, it has to feel cool. When someone buys AMI, that’s a contract. And I have to respect that and be humbled by it.
The contract between you and the person wearing the clothes?
AM: Yes. When someone is affording something, especially such a sensitive and intimate thing as clothes, I really respect it. It’s a different kind of connection. And we are connected more today than ever. I manage the AMI Instagram account myself. People will DM me, like, “How do I wash this sweater?” And you have to answer.
AM: Yes. When someone is affording something, especially such a sensitive and intimate thing as clothes, I really respect it. It’s a different kind of connection. And we are connected more today than ever. I manage the AMI Instagram account myself. People will DM me, like, “How do I wash this sweater?” And you have to answer.
You personally respond?
AM: Yeah! I don’t always sign “Alexandre” but I try to always answer.
AM: Yeah! I don’t always sign “Alexandre” but I try to always answer.
Everyone wants to say “Oh I don’t follow trends,” but what’s one current fashion trend you really love?
AM: I think elegance is coming back. The idea of being well-dressed. It’s a bourgeoisie thing, which is what we did with the last [FW’19] show. I think streetwear was at its highest point, but we are French, and have a Parisian perspective. Being elegant. Being classic. But not old-school. So: double-breasted camel coat, black jeans, white trainers. Looking clean, beautiful, very nice. That’s where I’m going now. I’m turning 40 and it’s time to stop trying to be young.
AM: I think elegance is coming back. The idea of being well-dressed. It’s a bourgeoisie thing, which is what we did with the last [FW’19] show. I think streetwear was at its highest point, but we are French, and have a Parisian perspective. Being elegant. Being classic. But not old-school. So: double-breasted camel coat, black jeans, white trainers. Looking clean, beautiful, very nice. That’s where I’m going now. I’m turning 40 and it’s time to stop trying to be young.
What’s the last movie that was so nice you saw it twice?
AM: I saw Roma twice. Once on the plane, and once at home on a bigger screen. When we did the show last spring, I said “slow is the new fast,” meaning I like taking the time to think, to observe, taking time to rest. I feel like people are running around all the time and losing the energy to concentrate. People said to me, “Roma is slow, nothing is happening, it’s two hours long…” I didn’t feel it was slow at all. You have to reconnect with the real essence of time. Day, morning, afternoon, night. It takes time to make a connection. It takes time to make beautiful clothes. It takes time to find yourself. It doesn’t happen quickly, or even in a year.
AM: I saw Roma twice. Once on the plane, and once at home on a bigger screen. When we did the show last spring, I said “slow is the new fast,” meaning I like taking the time to think, to observe, taking time to rest. I feel like people are running around all the time and losing the energy to concentrate. People said to me, “Roma is slow, nothing is happening, it’s two hours long…” I didn’t feel it was slow at all. You have to reconnect with the real essence of time. Day, morning, afternoon, night. It takes time to make a connection. It takes time to make beautiful clothes. It takes time to find yourself. It doesn’t happen quickly, or even in a year.
What’s an inexpensive item you like to wear that instantly makes you feel cool?
AM: I buy all my white t-shirts in Japan at Worker’s store. I buy them all the time. When people go to Japan I ask them to bring me these shirts. I’m not snobbish about the price of things. Sometimes a cheap thing is good.
What’s an item of clothing you buy repeatedly?
AM: It’s my jeans at AMI. The fit is perfect for me. I got my last pair like a week ago.
What’s your uniform this season?
AM: Jeans–or black cropped trousers that we design at AMI–with white trainers all the time, something classic by Nike or Adidas. And a white t-shirt, or black t-shirt, and a belt. And a jacket. I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about what I’m wearing anymore. I just try and be direct.
What’s the oldest item in your clothing rotation?
AM: I have actually the first leather jacket I designed for AMI, nine years ago. It’s the first style I designed, and the first sample from the factory. The leather has become very nice, and I’m wearing it again.
Last question: Music. What’s your anthem right now?
AM: This is easy. Roma didn’t have music, but they did an album of music inspired by the film. There is this girl Jessie Reyez, and her song is “Con el Viento.” The song is amazing. You must listen. And take your time with it.
AM: Jeans–or black cropped trousers that we design at AMI–with white trainers all the time, something classic by Nike or Adidas. And a white t-shirt, or black t-shirt, and a belt. And a jacket. I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about what I’m wearing anymore. I just try and be direct.
What’s the oldest item in your clothing rotation?
AM: I have actually the first leather jacket I designed for AMI, nine years ago. It’s the first style I designed, and the first sample from the factory. The leather has become very nice, and I’m wearing it again.
Last question: Music. What’s your anthem right now?
AM: This is easy. Roma didn’t have music, but they did an album of music inspired by the film. There is this girl Jessie Reyez, and her song is “Con el Viento.” The song is amazing. You must listen. And take your time with it.