Meet the roster of fresh young talent forming the city’s new establishment.
Since launching his label in 2010, Simkhai has taken his girl-meets-boy aesthetic into the purely feminine realm. Spring finds the Vogue favorite evolving his trademark “girl” from sexpot to more polished (though suggestive) lady for a look that will have fans flocking.
F/W Inspiration: “I really wanted to play with power and strength but also something that felt intricate and detailed.”
Signatures: Intricate geometric laces and figure flattering bodycon dresses
Accolades: co-winner of the 2015 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund
Fan Club: Kylie Jenner, ___ and Anna Wintour (she sat front row at his recent Fall/Winter ’16 show)
The Simkhai woman: “Girls who use fashion as a tool to get excited.”
Secret to His Success: “Giving her the thing that she can count on from me and balancing that with newness [to] keep her excited.”
Their sources of inspiration are as varied and as many as the years they waited to launch their label (they waited nearly 15 years after design school). However, Australian duo Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin have become a go-to for women in search of clothes that are as cool as they are relevant to real life.
F/W Inspiration: Known for seasonal muses, Fall focused on feminist artists Barbara Kruger and Mona Hatoum. Other inspirations included sex shop references (manifest as PVC turtlenecks, lace and corsets) and Vivienne Westwood.
Signatures: Cool takes on classic shirting.
New This Season: Corsetry. “The girls wore corsets on the runway like they wear our shirts, like a casual, easy, understated kind of piece.” —Ryan Lobo
The Tome Woman: “We always describe our woman as one who knows both what she needs and what she desires. They can be two very different things and her strength is getting both of them.” —Ramon Martin
Secret to Their Success: “As designers, as creative, you have to be fresh. We want to excite people and we don’t want to be stale. [This season] we’ve managed to push things in a new direction without betraying what Tome is about." —R.L
They have one of the cutest love stories in fashion: they met when he was in design school and she was his fit model. Since, Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock’s has been a quick rise to fame (their first collection debuted for Fall ’14) thanks to a design philosophy that resonates with the modern woman: luxury pieces that are made for real life.
F/W Inspiration: Fabrics and shapes inspired by the Edwardian era. “We wanted to make all of the feminine silhouettes easy to wear.” —Laura Vassar
Signatures: “Tailored pieces we’re known for and the idea of wearing a coat as a dress and using feminine fabrics in a tailored way makes it more feminine.” —L.V.
Accolades: Their recent Fall/Winter ’16 collection marked their runway debut
New This Season: Chic brogues and loafers launched in collaboration with George Esquivel and fur. “We thought it was nice to a fur in a way that you can wear every day, something that you’d want to wear with jeans.” —L.V.
The Brock woman: A modern girl who still appreciates dressing in a feminine way everyday. (Vassar credits her mother, who dresses up even to the grocery store, as inspiration).
Secret to Their Success: Imbuing couture-like craftsmanship and elevated pieces with an everyday sensibility (that they’ve coolly paired everything from a brocade dress to fur with their “hit” jeans is proof of that).
Since launching in 2010, the RISD graduate’s quiet rise to fame is not dissimilar to her signature aesthetic which spotlights minimalist pieces in a way that guarantees a statement. It’s no surprise that her show has become a must-see for those in the know.
F/W Inspiration: Photographer Sally Mann, notorious for her honesty, confidence and refusal to conform. “This season was a lot about an attitude.”
Signatures: Pieces that imbue everyday items with a sense of luxury, such as plush sweaters accented in fur, standout but love forever coats and “wow” dresses.
Design Philosophy: “The clothes are simple in the sense that they’re not over-fussy—it’s a sweater, it’s a jacket. It’s upping the luxury with a touch of fur or a little bit of embellishment. [In the end] it’s relatable.”
Fan Club: Lady Gaga was an early supporter and fans since span from Emily Blunt to Gigi Hadig.
The Sally Woman: “Simple, cool, luxe."
Secret to Her Success: “As a young designer I think it’s been so important to learn quickly, establish and be able to stay the same but evolve at the same time. I’m actually more excited about this collection than ever have been it’s taking our signatures but giving it another layer. It feels like the perfect balance between core and new.”