Jonathan Saunders Reveals
His Debut for Diane von Furstenberg
Scroll down to see his thoughts on the collection
By Tatiana Hambro
It was one of the hottest tickets in town. In a Meatpacking warehouse in New York, Jonathan Saunders (the designer who closed his eponymous London-based label at the end of 2015) would be showing his debut collection for Diane von Furstenburg.
Celebrated for his way with print and color, it made sense for the respected American brand to recruit the Scottish designer as their chief creative officer. His task? Steering DVF back to fashion relevancy without compromising the iconic codes of the house. “I really believe in the brand,” he said, implicitly referencing the values of femininity and freedom so dear to its founder.
For Saunders, freedom manifested as fashion means movement, wearability, effortlessness, ease and eclecticism. Larger-than-life digital screens, propped up at the presentation so they greeted viewers upon entrance, beamed moving images of models slowly twirling, shuffling from side to side, and generally just "being" in the clothes. They wore skirts over pants, asymmetric tops, super-size single earrings and chunky anklets (which Saunders reportedly made by tweaking DVF charm bracelets in an inspired moment during casting).
Further in, real-life models elegantly sat within a contemporary light installation, exuding cool. Occasionally they got up to strut confidently, circling the room leaving ripples of sensual silk trailing behind them. Movement, yes—but also pure desirability.
“I want the entire collection” came a voice from a young woman eyeing the patchwork floral and polka dot dress (what the designer amusingly refers to as “printed migraine”). Considering the rave reviews, she won’t be the only one.
“I wanted the clothes to have a feeling of sensuality and be provocative. This blouse has a ruffle that falls from the shoulder and reveals a flash of skin.”
“I developed a spontaneous and unexpected mix of prints like the florals and polka dots you see in this dress. It was important to me that each piece had a sense of femininity and ease.”
“This Spring coat couldn’t be easier to wear. It’s cut from unlined silk and is lightweight, which makes it a great transitional and useful wardrobe addition.”
“This dress is covered in tiny, silver sequins and cleverly uses only horizontal stretch so it will skim the body and not lose its shape. It’s lined entirely in beautiful blush pink silk.”
“I wanted to stay true to the brand pillars but also modernize. This dress riffs on the original wrap but is updated with an asymmetrical silhouette. The beautiful checkerboard lace is an homage to DVF’s legacy of craftsmanship."
Diane von Furstenberg
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